The Alcan Highway

[A brief note: We have been off the Alcan for over a week but without an internet connection. Alaska wild is Alaska WILD. More coming.]

The Alcan Highway connects Dawson Creek, British Columbia with Delta Junction, Alaska. It was constructed during WWII to allow troops and material to be transported to Alaska to combat a possible invasion by the Japanese. When it was completed, it was 1,700 miles long (It’s shorter now). Started March 9, 1942, the Alaska and Canadian Highway was completed October 28 the same year (That’s just seven months). It was considered the largest engineering/construction project since the Panama Canal. The US Army assigned more than 10,000 men to the project.

Crossing mile 0 on the Alcan Highway.


I first heard of the Alcan highway in the 60’s. My father often spoke of driving it. He never did. Of course, at that time it was a huge challenge, 1700 miles of mostly unpaved roads with service stations and supplies few and far between. Average speeds couldn’t have been more than 30-40 miles per hour. Cars and trucks were not nearly as dependable as they are now. So, for Dad driving the Alcan Highway was a huge BHAG (Big Harry Audacious Goal). With six kids to raise and a family to support he could never seriously consider making the trek. For him it remained a distant dream.

Anne and I have one remaining National Park in Alaska to visit, Wrangell-Saint Elias. We could have flown to Anchorage, rented a car, driven to McCarthy and visited the park. But somehow that didn’t seem right to me. I’m getting up in years and our visits to Alaska are probably numbered. This might be the last chance I have to pay homage to my father, Leland Mattice Knapp, and fulfill what he never had the time or resources to do. Drive to Alaska. The challenges aren’t as great now, the roads are paved (actually they are pretty good), fuel and services are easily available, the speeds are faster, but it is still a long way. And I could still see what my father would have seen. The scenery is still there, and animals still come out to graze or play by the roadside as you pass. So, this trip is for you dad, you would have loved it.

Continue reading

A comment on the RV life

We are sitting by a campfire in Banff National Park, Alberta Canada, Tunnel Mountain Village Campground #2, campsite 41 A. It’s an interesting campground. There are three large camp loops (A, B, & C), each consisting of five parallel roads about 3/8th of a mile long. The roads are connected on the ends by a U-shaped turn around, and an access road runs across the middle. The roads are about fifty feet apart. Picnic tables, fire rings, and electrical hook-ups, also spaced about 50 feet apart, line each side of the roads.

Tunnel Mountain Village 2 Campground. Parallel parking camping.


When we arrived, we drove down the correct road, found 41 A, swung over to the gravel shoulder in front of our picnic table, fire ring, and power station. We parallel parked, plugged in and we were there. While there is room to put up a tent, no one has. This part of the campground is clearly designed for RV’s. It is easy access, easy setup, high density, and compact. In a small area there are sites for over 200 RV’s. Some as long as forty-five feet.

High density housing.


Continue reading

Moscow Contradictions

“We’re in Moscow. Let’s find Red Square.”
“I’m too tired. Let me put my feet up for a few minutes.”
This conversation could have gone either way. From me to Anne or vice versa. We were both exhausted by the two weeks of horseback riding in Mongolia but excited about seeing Moscow for the first time. We decided to go out, but to whine too.

Stayed at the Hotel Metropol right next to Red Square.

Continue reading

Random Mongolian Thoughts

The Mongolian Horse is strong and tough. Though smaller than horses in America they seem to be able to go forever. I weigh between 200 and 210 pounds and my horses (one in the Gobi Desert for three days and another in the Orkhan Valley for five) carried me about 5 hours each day covering 30-35 kilometers over sand dunes, up and, possibly harder, down mountains, through streams, walking, trotting, and galloping, in thunderstorms and 95-degree heat. They never gave up. Impressive.

We’re getting ready to follow Baggi up a large Dune of loose sand in 95-degree heat.

Continue reading

Look before you leap

It was Doug’s fault. That’s right, Doug was totally to blame. Wednesday was fully booked. A walk up Diamond Head, a hike up Koko Head, a quick swim and a shave ice. Off we went. The walk up Diamond Head included switchbacks, stairs, a tunnel, a spiral staircase, beautiful views and was sufficiently long and steep to warm us up.

Honolulu and Waikiki beach from the top of Diamond Head

Honolulu and Waikiki beach from the top of Diamond Head

We then went further east to Koko Head. Koko Head used to have a funicular. That is now the official trail. A dead straight path consisting of 1,447 railroad ties spaced unevenly acting as steps of varying heights from too low to too high. It starts off gently then gets steeper and steeper until it feels like you can reach out and touch the ties in front of you. Challenging to say the least.
Continue reading

Daraja Academy Update

Daraja and NRT need your help!

We have reached pledges totaling $20,450 out of the $60,000 that we need to raise. That is a good start, 34%, but it is time to do more. Is there anyone out there that intended to pledge but had it slip their mind? If so, now is the time. Anyone who thought about it but hadn’t made up their mind? Now is the time. Anyone who thought that others would give enough? Now is the time. Anyone who has already pledged but on second thought wants to be even more generous? Now is the time. Step up and help us reach our goal.

We are raising money to support Daraja Academy build a new set of classrooms so they can double the number of girls of poverty they are training to be leaders in their communities. In exchange they will promise a specific number of seats for young women of poverty from NRT conservancies. A huge win-win for both Daraja and NRT girls.

We can do this with your help. Every $100, $500, $1,000, or more will be going to a great cause.

Remember, for now, just send me a pledge at jknapp@usinternet.com. I’ll contact you when and how to actualize the tax deductible donation.

Thanks in advance.

John Knapp

How to Move a Rhino

1. Read it “Flowers for Algernon“, a short story written in 1958 by Daniel Keyes.

2. Drive your car closer and closer. The rhinos will then vacate the ford with a couple of feints towards the car, which, of course produces a few squeaks from the passenger sitting on the side of the car closest to the rhinos.
Rhino in road
3. Gather about 50 people, including vets, sharpshooters, game wardens, security officers, drivers, pilots, scientists and spectators, a helicopter, multiple trucks and cars and a couple of heavy duty Volvo FL12 off-road trucks with built-in hydraulic lift arms. Then dart the rhino to knock it out, implant a transponder into its horn, manhandle the rhino around that so when it wakes up it dashes into a crate designed for holding rhinos, lift all 3,000 lbs of rhino aboard the truck and drive it to the Sera Rhino Sanctuary. All the while, have the services of two vets to make sure the rhino isn’t harmed in the process.

Let’s look at #3 in more detail.
Continue reading

Twenty Years in the Making

John Pameri, Lewa head of Security

John Pameri, Lewa head of Security

On Monday, Anne, Sara Bonino, and I were watching a black Rhino being captured, loaded on a truck and shipped to the Sera Rhino Sanctuary. John Pameri, Lewa’s head of security told me that it was a dream twenty years in the making.

A Black Rhino on Lewa.

A Black Rhino on Lewa.

Kenya has about 640 black Rhinos. A week ago Lewa protected 73 of them but that will soon be down to 63. Ten, along with four from Lake Nakuru National Park and six from Nairobi National Park are being trans located to the Sera Conservancy Trust about 50 kilometers north of Lewa. This is a historic moment for Kenyan wildlife. In the 45 years since 1970 the 20,000 Kenyan Black Rhino population had been reduced to about 400 in the late 1990’s. The number has grown to around 640 Rhino living in private sanctuaries and National Parks. This is the first time that the Rhinos are being re-located to their traditional grounds to be protected from poaching by the local pastoralist community. The 20 rhinos will be fenced in an area of about 25,000 acres within the Sera Conservancy Trust.

Ian Craig inspecting a poached Rhino

Ian Craig inspecting a poached Rhino

Ian Craig, one of the founders of the Lewa conservancy and of the Northern Rangelands Trust is a principal driver of the Sera Rhino Conservancy. One of his dreams was to motivate and empower the local communities so that they would have both the desire and ability to protect local wildlife. The Sera Rhino Conservancy is an embodiment of that dream. Registered in 2001 under the umbrella of NRT, Sera Conservancy Trust has been an active member of NRT taking part in women’s beading, livestock to market, rangelands management and good governance. They have come to realize that hosting the Rhino sanctuary benefits them in many ways. The local community got jobs as the sanctuary was built and they will see more in providing security and management for the Rhinos. In addition the Rhinos will provide a tourist draw leading to future economic development. Hopefully, they also realize that as Rhinos are part of their heritage and natural environment, the Rhinos have an intrinsic value as well.

Scholarships for 150 Girls: You can Help.

Okay, this is a bit complicated. I would like to get pledges for donations for a school here in Kenya that would be a great benefit to students from NRT schools. $125 can secure a spot in a high quality school for a poor girl for a year. $500 can ensure her secondary education. Random-control test based research shows that education is the most effective way to raise individuals and whole families out of poverty. In developing countries, every year of education makes a real difference to income.

Let me tell you about the school first.

Daraja Academy is a girl’s secondary boarding school that specializes in preparing women to be leaders. They focus their recruiting on Kenyan girls who perform well in primary school who are extremely poor yet demonstrate leadership potential. It is located in Northern Kenya between Nanyuki and Doldol, just outside our Naibunga Conservancy.

They have an excellent reputation. I believe that 82% of their 2014 graduates qualified for university and 100% are doing some sort of post-secondary education. That puts them among the best secondary schools in Kenya. The only cost to the girls’ families is for transportation fees (about $50 per year). All other necessities, medical care, uniforms, education fees, and school materials are provided. I met several of the teachers and their dedication and ability are impressive.

Could one of these girls in Biliqo Bulesa Primary go to Daraja Academy?

Could one of these girls in Biliqo Bulesa Primary go to Daraja Academy?

Continue reading

Not in Africa

Norma Jeanne Dougherty, nee Norma Jeanne Baker, later to become Marilyn Monroe, lived there for several years.

It was there that Winston Churchill, Teddy Roosevelt, Cecil B. DeMille, Charlie Chaplain, and Bing Crosby were all members of the Tuna Cub. The oldest fishing club in the USA.

The Chicago Cubs held spring training there for 30 years.

Zane Grey built a house and lived there.

Ronald Reagan, then an announcer for the Cubs, went to spring training there one year and took some time off to audition in nearby Los Angeles. The rest is history.

Natalie Woods drowned there while vacationing with her husband, Robert Wagoner, and friend, Christopher Walken.

In January, John and Anne Knapp vacationed there and took a twelve mile walk from the airfield back to Avalon.

We approach the island.

We approach the island.


Continue reading