Round the World 2017: A new journey

[Note to readers: Over the next six weeks, we will be using Tencenturies.com to post commentary on our 2017 trip around the world.]

Background:

A decade ago, John read a book about Genghis Khan; how Khan rose from commoner to ruler and then solidified his vast empire through savvy assimilation of disparate cultures and innovative, peri-modern administrative governance. Somewhere between pages 1 and 352 of that book, a desire to ride across the Mongolian steppes on horseback (perhaps with a pendant fluttering in the wind on a long, garlanded lance) germinated in John’s imagination. There it grew until three years ago it surfaced in one of our periodic “what shall we do next” conversations. At the time, I smiled and give John a vague non-committal, spousal nod. We were mid-way through our Kenyan experience. I secretly assumed that spending two years in one endless arid grassland would dampen John’s desire to venture immediately into another. I was wrong. John pushed for Mongolia in 2016 but the trip was postponed by his mother’s and my father’s failing health. In 2017, Mongolia was back on the schedule.

luggage

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Conservation, hunting and, strangely, Dr. Walter Palmer

Believe it or not, I decided on Monday that my next post would be about hunting. John and I are back in Kenya for three weeks and we spent the weekend outside of Tsavo East National Park, home to many of Kenya’s last “big tuskers;” elephants whose tusks each weigh over 100 lbs. It is also home to the Wata people, a culture intimately intertwined with elephants. More than any other Kenyan culture, the Wata rely on elephants for their sustenance, their status, their incomes, their rituals and their sense of history. Wata are elephant hunters. They are poachers.

Big tuskers outside of Tsavo East National Park

Big tuskers outside of Tsavo East National Park


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Conservation is a Global Economic Challenge

This is the text of a talk I gave for The Nature Conservancy earlier this week. Just a warning; it is longer than the average blog post. It seemed appropriate as a kind of wrap up. It takes you from the start to the finish. Happy reading.

John, me and the BeadWORK's team at Sori's wedding, July 7, 2015.

John, me and the BeadWORK’s team at Sori’s wedding, July 7, 2015.


John, and I have just returned from two years working with The Northern Rangelands Trust, in Kenya. We’ve been back in the United States for about a month. I have to admit I still feel a bit like Rip Van Winkle and I’m struggling to catch up. In many ways the cultural shock coming home is much worse than it was going.
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A Butterfly in the Palm of Your Hand

I could tell Sori was getting restless. Sori is the field manager for NRT Trading’s BeadWORKS business. She’d been sitting on an unyielding wooden bench for nearly three hours surrounded by 21 somber Samburu women dressed in their best go-to-meeting finery; layers of colorful, flowing kanga and head-to-toe beads. Sori, in her modest, black, floor-length Muslim dress and bright orange head scarf, was a gold crested raven among butterflies.

The 21 women were an unofficial delegation from the Kalama Conservancy. They’d arrived unannounced slightly after 11 am and asked to talk to the NRT leaders. For some of them, Lewa was the farthest they had ever been from home. The women were nervous. They wanted to discuss Kalama’s recent suspension from NRT and its impact on their ability to earn a living. Kalama’s problems were not their fault, they insisted. They were just women who wanted to use their hands to make beautiful things to earn money to send their children to school and to pay for food. They should not be punished for the wrong doings and corruption of 5 male members of the Kalama Board.

The Kalama delegation

The Kalama delegation


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Sounds in the night

We are worried about Bill. A buffalo was killed on the hill in front of Anna’s house, our guest house, last night. We can’t go down there to investigate because buffalo take several days for predators to consume. There are likely lions nearby sleeping off their meal in the tall grass under a tree, passing time until they return for second helpings.

Bill.  If he is gone, we will miss him.

Bill. If he is gone, we will miss him.


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My Father’s Office

Not long ago, my brother Alan and I went to my father’s office at UCLA to decide if a Danish sofa that had been there since 1970 was worth saving and to see how much stuff still needed to be cleared out. After 60 years UCLA finally wanted the office back and Dad, who has late-stage Parkinson’s disease, isn’t using it any more. The office was pretty empty. UCLA Archives had hung notes on a shelf and a drawer saying their review was complete. Whatever remained could be tossed. The bottom shelf of one bookcase was packed with decaying binders of Dad’s lecture notes and class material. Other shelves held stacks of manuscript reprints and folders full of mathematical musings. My father’s distinctive writing – confident, slightly slanted script and equations written in bold, black fountain pen – was evident everywhere.

The blackboard in my father's office.

The blackboard in my father’s office.


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More Toys

Ten Centuries subscribers will note that it has been a while since our last post. Christmas and an extended visit to the United States have come and gone. Life took a slight detour in early January when chest pains and elevated blood pressure sent John to the emergency room while we were in California visiting our parents. He emerged from the hospital a couple days later with two shiny new arterial stents and instructions not to return to Kenya for over 30 days. I, on the other hand, needed to get back to work. So off I went leaving him to recuperate on the beach in Los Angeles, playing golf with my uncle and riding his bike hard enough to test his refurbished cardiac plumbing.

John, back on Lewa, watching the sun rise this morning with a tall, quiet visitor.

John, back on Lewa, watching the sun rise this morning with a tall, quiet visitor.


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A short Holiday Story for 2015

Once upon a time, when our children were small and our budget even smaller, I was one of Santa’s elves. Around December 1st every year our bedroom door closed, the sewing machine came out and the kids were excluded from entry. “Santa needs help making all of those presents,” we told Marion and Richard. “He’s outsourced a lot of production to mommies and daddies around the world. You can’t go into our bedroom because Mommy is one of Santa’s elves.” The explanation seemed to satisfy the kids and they complied with the “do not enter” policy. Perhaps they thought that peeking would spoil their chances for a good Christmas haul.

The items created in my workshop relied heavily on cheap material and notions sourced from the S. R. Harris Fabric Warehouse where everything was always half price and if you had a special coupon they’d take an additional 20% off your purchase. Stuffed animals, dolls, doll clothes, pajamas, super hero costumes, Cabbage-Patch Kids, sleep-over sleeping bags and new winter coats rolled off my production line. I worked hard and tried to make things look “store-bought.” I was generally pretty pleased with the results and the Christmas tree was never empty.

In all those years I never really wondered what my poor but industrious elf counterparts were creating in other parts of the world. What types of toys did Santa order for the children in the jungles of Central America or Africa’s arid plains? What materials did the parent-elves there use to whip up their Christmas surprises? After 14 months living in northern Kenya, I have a pretty good idea. Santa recycles. African elves don’t have S. R. Harris. They have used plastic bottles, bottle caps, old tires, nails, strings, sticks and stones. They make some pretty cool stuff.

A stick, two large, bright orange bottle caps and two nails make a great push toy not unlike the ubiquitous corn-popper push toy that drives every American parent crazy. An old bicycle tire and a stick will keep a rambunctious boy occupied for hours and two sets of each will create a day of competition. Old rope is plentiful as are expanses of flat dirt, so jump-roping thrives. Kenyan school girls dream of following in the footsteps of the jumpers from Nairobi’s Kibera slums who speed stepped, Double Dutched, freestyled and jump-danced their way to the world jump-roping championships in Orlando.

Jump ropers at the Serinya School

Jump ropers at the Serinya School


And then there are the vehicles. Santa’s African elves can do a lot with an empty cooking oil bottle or a pint of whisky whose contents are gone, perhaps consumed in good cheer by the elf himself. A bottle, four bottle caps and four fasteners of any kind, combined together, make a car, a truck, a cart or a bus.

Cooking oil and whisky bottle cars.

Cooking oil and whisky bottle cars.

Merry Christmas
Anne and John Knapp

Don Giovanni and Other Kenyan Firsts (after 14 months)

Off to the opera

Off to the opera


First #1:

“Do you want to go to the opera?” Jo O’Brian, our boss Mike Harrison’s wife, asked. “It’s Don Giovanni. I’m not sure if it will be live or a movie. It’s up in Nanyuki and Maggie and Al are putting together a picnic. It should be fun.” I immediately said “sure.” Formal entertainment around here is so rare that I’d attend just about anything; certainly Mozart and maybe even Wagner. John and Mike pursed their lips, looked skeptical then hesitantly agreed. They would go for the food. I could tell John was already planning to endure the experience by loading up on “savory bits” and wine and then sleeping it off during the show.

Don Giovanni in the bush, with an official play-bill and everything.

Don Giovanni in the bush, with an official play-bill and everything.


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Poverty

I’ve learned a new term; “people at the bottom of the pyramid.” Among poverty researchers and developmental economists it means the poorest of the poor, people who exist on less than $1 per day. It even has an acronym; PBP. This is the target population for hundreds of charities. PBP are the individuals and households that foundations and grant makers want most to uplift with the programs they fund. Last week I submitted two grant applications to the African Enterprise Challenge Fund. The projects forecast income benefits to over 100,000 PBP. I’m keeping my fingers crossed that they will be favorably reviewed.

At the bottom of the pyramid? Husband and wives.

At the bottom of the pyramid? Husband and wives.


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