Conflict in Kalama

In my first blog post about the beaded women of northern Kenya (A Shameless Pitch, November 10, 2013), I observed that “pastoralist women are neither empowered nor liberated.” Last week I discovered how quickly empowerment can occur given some economic leverage and I experienced the independent and determined nature of these pastoralist people.

The women bead crafters in Kalama and Sera went on strike. They refused to sell NRT the beadwork we had ordered.

When you envision such a strike, erase the image of placard-carrying, protest-chanting union workers. Replace it with rail-thin, ebony women, a quarter of whom have babies swaddled on their backs, dressed in a cacophony of brightly colored kanga (long pieces of cloth) and elaborate beading from head to toe. In the dust, underneath an acacia tree they cluster around a single, besieged man and alternate between staccato, hand-waving complaints and stony, expressionless stares. Despite obvious poverty, they will not part with their strings of beaded bracelets, key rings and coasters.

The chairman starting the meeting.

The chairman starting the meeting.


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Night Visitors

I woke up and opened my eyes. It was dark and moonless outside. Stars were shining through the upper corner of our bedroom window, a sure sign it was not yet 4 am. I mentally ran through the check list of reasons I might be awake: Cold? No. Hot? No. Need to go to the bathroom? No. I looked at my watch. It was 2:58 am. Then I became aware of sounds; loud breathing, guttural grunts, munching, the occasional clunk and a branch snapping.

John, also awake, whispered from beside me “Do you hear that?” “Yeah,” I replied. “What is it?” We lay there for a minute or two listening. It got closer and louder. “Why does it sound like a toilet is flushing?” I asked, by now up on my elbows peering through the mosquito netting into the night. It is no more than 30 feet from our bedroom window to our outdoor shower. Whatever it was, it was somewhere in that scant 10 yards.

Shadows in the night.

Shadows in the night.


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