Yesterday, Tim and I rode L’etape du Tour. It was beyond a doubt the hardest day physically I have ever experienced. We rode a total of 90 miles (81 on l’etape and 9 returning from the finish). In the course of that we were climbing for between 40 and 45 miles. The total ascent was 11,375 feet.

The first half of the ride was to die for. The weather was perfect, blue skies with puffy white clouds and an afternoon temperature of 80 degrees. The course started out with six miles of flat along the crystal azure waters of Lake Annecy with views of majestic mountains in every direction. We then began climbing past picturesque villages to mountain passes with picture perfect vistas. At every village local residents lined up along the route chanting allez, allez, allez (go, go, go).

Once we entered the hills, the climb to Cote du Puget was very similar to the ride up Cadillac Mountain on Acadia in Maine, a little taller but about the same gradient 5.3% or so (category 2). Continuing the climb to Col de Leschaux was more of the same for another 480 feet of up (category 3). Six miles of rolling terrain that was mostly downhill left us at the base of the climb to Cote d’Aillon-le-Vieux and continued onward to Col des Pres (both cat 3). The downhill from Col de Pres was technical; twisty, turny and full of hairpins. It was also four miles of pure adrenaline rush.

The second half of the ride, I nearly died. At mile thirty eight I stopped at the Getaway Tours feed station. It was my first stop and while a bit tired I was feeling good. I had yet to use my lowest gear as I was saving that for the challenges in the second half. Filling up my water bottles and grabbing a quick Cliff Bar and a hand full of nuts, I hit the road again.

After about a mile there was a short “biter” of an uphill, 10-13% for a half mile or so. Then a quick downhill and I reached the start of the climb to Mont Revard. Mont Revard is a category 1 hill. It is 10 miles long and rises 3,280 feet. I put the bike into low and began the grind, going between 5 and 7 mph. An hour later the grind continued. And it continued. Shortly before reaching the top, drenched with sweat, both of my thighs began cramping. When I stood on the pedals to give my backside a rest and to stretch and change position, both sets of thigh muscles locked up. But finally the peak: I’d summited Mont Revard without once dismounting and walking. The view was fantastic but passed quickly as I rolled over the summit straight into a wild, free flying descent.

Pretty beat by now, I figured the next ten mile downhill and 14 mile flat section would let me recoup enough for the final push up Mt. Semnoz. My mistake. Semnoz is rated “Beyond Category” (HC) by the Tour de France organizers for a reason. It is a 6.7 mile climb of 3,900 feet. It averages 8.4% with some mile long stretches at 10.5%. To add insult to injury, it is immediately preceded by a mile or so of a “mild” 6-7% climb.

I had refilled my water bottles a bit before the climbing started and my legs, though tired, seemed ok to go. Getting through the warm-up hill I ran into Semnoz. The road immediately kicked up to 10-11% and stayed there. One mile done, then another half mile and my legs, heart and lungs said “No more!” I swung off the bike and joined the other walkers. Still determined to get to the top, I walked as quickly as I could. After another quarter mile, though, I couldn’t take another step. Spying a group of riders standing in the shade of a tree, I joined them. Gasping for breath, stretching cramps out of my legs, trying not to throw up and waiting for my heart rate to come down out of the stratosphere, I leaned on my bike. As I put pressure on my arms, one arm began twitching uncontrollably for a few seconds. “I may have to withdraw from the race.” crossed my mind for the first time.

After about five minutes of mental and physical anguish one of the other racers mounted and began riding, then another. I joined them and continued up. Soon thereafter the gradient eased off to 7% and a half mile further on to 3% for a short distance where the organizers had put the final water stop. As I rode into the stop I was astonished to hear, “GO JOHN!.” Anne and Susan had hiked seven miles up the mountain to encourage Tim and me on the final ascent. I stood there gasping for air and told Anne that I didn’t think I could make it. She grabbed me by the shoulders, looked me in the eyes and said, “Yes, you can. You’re almost at the finish. You could crawl and make it in time. You can do this.” She gave me a kiss. How could I stop now? I remounted, rounded the next switchback and went to meet the final five miles of pain. It wasn’t pretty. Ride as far as possible, get off and walk, remount, then do it again. And again. In all I walked about one to one and a half miles of the 6.7 miles of Semnoz. I’m proud to say that I rode the final 600 meters. In fact, as I hit the 100 meter mark, three other riders pulled up to pass me. I stood up on the pedals and sprinted by them (if 12 mph can be called a sprint) to the finish.

So, this was the hardest day I have ever had physically. Was it fun? I don’t know yet. At times I was having the time of my life at others it was hell. I’m glad I did it, a 63 year old man, climbing 11,375 feet on a bicycle over a distance of 81 miles in 7 hours 52 minutes.

I do know one thing, I may not have been able to finish without the words of encouragement from Anne. Babe, thank you, I love you and together we can accomplish most anything.